First, the golden rule of every design
Before you pick a pattern, remember the priority order that decides whether any design works: position → silhouette → texture → color. A gorgeous brick pattern painted on a chameleon standing in the middle of an open floor still gets caught, because the shape is wrong and the location draws the eye. Choose your spot first so your body already fits the surface, then paint to finish the illusion.
1. Brick & wall camouflage
Walls are the most common surface and the easiest to get wrong. The trick is the mortar lines, not the brick color. Paint a repeating grid that lines up with the real bricks behind you, then dirty it up: add darker streaks near the floor, faint stains, and uneven shading so it doesn't look like a fresh texture stamp.
- Match the brick rhythm (row height and offset) before the exact hue.
- Break long straight seams — real walls have chips and wear.
- Stand flat against the wall so your silhouette reads as a bump, not a body.
2. Tile & mosaic designs
Tiled and mosaic surfaces are forgiving because the busy pattern hides small painting errors. That makes them ideal for newer players. Align your grid to the real grout lines and keep the tile size consistent across your whole body — a sudden change in tile scale is an instant tell for the Hunter.
- Keep grout lines continuous where your body meets the surface.
- Vary individual tile colors slightly; perfectly identical tiles look fake.
- Great for corners where two tiled planes meet and confuse depth perception.
3. Graffiti & banner blends
On graffiti walls, posters, and banners you can — and should — go bold. Loud spray-paint shapes actually help here because the visual chaos overwhelms the eye and buries your outline. This is the one place where a "messy" design beats a clean one.
- Copy a few distinctive shapes from the real graffiti so you feel like part of the mural.
- Let high-contrast colors run across your silhouette edges to break them up.
- Avoid leaving a clean, unpainted border — that outline is what gets spotted.
4. Foliage & nature skins
Leaves, bushes, wood grain, and stone are irregular by nature, so imperfect painting actually looks more realistic. This is where "embracing imperfection" pays off. Add random darker specks and lighter highlights to fake depth and dappled light.
- Use several greens/browns, not one flat color.
- Add small shadow pockets to imply overlapping leaves.
- Match the direction of wood grain or branch lines to the surface behind you.
5. Prop & object mimic (the "square body" trick)
One of the strongest tactics is to stop looking like a creature entirely. Pose flat against a box, crate, vent, or pipe and paint yourself as that object — the classic "square body" look players search for. If your edges line up with the real prop, the Hunter reads you as furniture and moves on.
- Pick a pose that squares off your silhouette to match the object.
- Match the object's edges and its shadow line on the floor.
- Cluster near identical real props so you become "one more" of them.
6. Lighting & shading match
Even a perfect pattern fails under the wrong light. Real surfaces are brighter where light hits and darker in shadow. Paint a subtle gradient across your body that follows the room's lighting so your skin reacts to the environment like everything around it.
- Identify the light source, then brighten the side facing it.
- Deepen the shaded side and any areas that would naturally fall into shadow.
- Sample your colors in the same lighting where you'll actually hide.
Turn any design into flawless camouflage
Once you've chosen a design, execution is all about the tools. Learn eyedropper sampling, opacity layering, and shading in our paint tools guide, understand why players get caught, or level up your mind games with the decoys guide.